Today's most commonly asked questions.

 

Click on any one of the question to see an detailing answer. Then click on the BACK button to return to the top of the page.


1. How do I chlorinate my well?

This procedure is certainly something that a "handy" homeowner can do. You must first start by by-passing your water softener. There is usually a switch or button right on the water softener to accomplish this step. Next, remove the bolted on well cap so that you have access to the inside of the well. Pour powdered chlorine (found in pool stores) or liquid bleach (the kind you purchase at a grocery store) down the well casing. Cirulate the water in the well by running a garden hose from outside spiggot into the well. When you smell chlorinated water coming from the garden hose, you know the well has been adequately chlorinated. Next, run all cold water faucets in the house until you smell chlorinated water coming from them. Now, you must let the chlorine sit for a minimum of 12 hours and preferably 24-48 hours. During this procedure, very minimal water should be used. The longer the chlorine contact time the more disinfecting and cleansing will occur. After the wait, run an outside garden hose for 6-8 hours to flush the system of chlorine. Be sure to put the garden hose away from grass, shrubs, and trees as the heavy chlorine may cause damage to them. *In cases where a heavy chlorination has taken place it may take much longer to evacuate all the chlorine. It is necessary to keep running the hose until there is no more chlorine smell. This will not hurt your pump or system. When chlorine seems to have been flushed from the system, you may return your water softener to its regular settings and begin your normal water usage.

Our qualified professionals at T. Huemann Well & Pump, Inc. can do this process effectively and inexpensively. Contact us for a quote.

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2. Why do I seem to have low water pressure when I turn on a faucet or shower?

There are several reason why you may experience low water pressure at your faucet:
1. Strainer/aerator on faucet is clogged.
2. Plumbing to faucet or in faucet is plugged.
3. Softner or house filter is restricting flow.
4. Water logged pressure tank/"bad" pressure tank
5. Low vloume of water from well or over use of well capacity(too many faucets on).
The best way to narrow down the area of the problem is to check the pressure at the pressure tank by looking at the pressure guage. If it seems to have the appropriate pressure readings then turn on the faucet at the pressure tank. If the pressure coming from the faucet at the pressure tank is good, then your well and pressure tank are not the problem. More likely it is a restriction in flow in your plumbing, faucets, softener or aerator.

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3. Why does my water smell?

Different formations in the ground contain naturally occurring minerals. These minerals are completely harmless but do create the odors found in well water. In Southern Wisconsin, the most prevalent odors come from iron and sulfur and the non-harmful iron bacteria and sulfur bacteria that sometimes accompany these minerals. Two other potential sources of smelly water are the magnesium rod in your hot water heater or a bad "bladder" in your pressure tank. Both of these can leave a "rotten egg" smell in your water. Depending on the cause of the smell, there are several steps you can take:

    a. Chlorinate your system to clean out any mineral bacteria
    b. Install a water softener/Reverse Osomosis system to remove minerals
    c. Replace the defective pressure tank
    d. Remove the magnesium rod from the hot water heater

Our qualified professionals at T. Huemann Well & Pump, Inc. can assist you with these problems. Contact us for a quote.

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4. How do you estimate the depth of a well for a bid?

Estimating the depth of any well for a proposal consists of compiling data from careful research. We examine other wells in the area that are logged onto a DNR computer file. This allows us to enter the address or legal description of the property and call up other well locations in that immediate area. Many times we have already drilled a well nearby and have our own experience and records on hand. Finally, we estimate in the geologic water tables in that location. More than 75% of the time we are within 20 feet of our estimated well depth.

Please see our Free Estimate Page to inquire about an estimate for your well needs.

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5. Why do I need a screen?

When a well is finished in a sand and gravel water bearing formation, the screen is a necessary component to your system. It keeps the sand and gravel out while allowing maximum flow of water into your well casing. It is just like a coffee filter that keeps the grounds out but still allows the water to flow freely. Because it allows the well to continually produce the same volume of water throughout the years, we believe it actually prolongs the life of the well.

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6. Are steel wells better than pvc wells?

In Wisconsin, the state requires us to use steel whenever we finish a well in a limestone formation. We are able to use pvc whenever we finish our wells in sand and gravel formations. Pvc wells are better than steel because they don’t rust or allow mineral build up to form on the casing. They also don’t add any "taste" to the water as steel can do over a period of time. The pvc is also pressure tested and manufactured specifically to handle pressure. This makes it a very durable, strong product.

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7. Why does there seem to be "left-over" dirt after my water line has been installed?

After the water line has been excavated and installed in the trench, our company backfills the trench with the same dirt that was initially removed. Oftentimes, once backfilling is complete there will be a mound that extends above the ground. This is the result of the excavating process which has disturbed and loosened the once compact earth. The only true thing that helps this is time to allow the dirt to "settle". The rain, sun, and wind naturally help to settle the earth into the trench. This can take several weeks, and then all that is necessary is some light raking and grass seed. Many homeowners will remove the mounded dirt, level the trench sight and plant grass seed without allowing the trench to naturally "settle". Unfortuanately, what happens is the once level ground still settles naturally, and now the homeowner has a big "gulley" in their yard. Although unsightly, it is best to just allow the dirt to become compacted over time.

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8. How deep to I have to go to get "good" water?

"Good" water is really much more dependent on the geological formations and water bed of the well’s area than any specific foot depth. It is a myth to think that any specific depth will allow you to have better water than another. Generally speaking, the deeper you go there is more chance for increased minerals. These minerals are leached out and increase in the water as you go through each mineral bearing formation. "Good" water is also a customer preference and can vary greatly between customers. It may be necessary to have a softener installed to get really good water. The best thing is to have your water tested for hardness (mineral content). Hardness testing is done by anyone who installs water softener. Also, take a drink... do you like it??? Than you probably have really good water.

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9. Will I need a water softener with my existing or new well?

Most water in Southern Wisconsin is "hard" water. This means there are a lot of minerals found in the water tables. Oftentimes, this hard water will stain ceramic fixtures, white clothing, and even blonde hair may begin to turn light orange. (Not a pretty sight, take it from me) You may find you require more soap for washing yourself, clothes or dishes as there appears to be little to no lather. You may even think your water tastes/smells of minerals. These signs all indicate the need of a softener system to help decrease the mineral content of your water.

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10. How can I take a sterile water sample?

**Obtain a state approved sterile water bottle or twist bag…direction for both listed below.

**Obtain water sample sheet to be filled out or have one filled out at water lab when you drop off sample.

Sterile Bottle

**It is very important that you NEVER touch the stream of water or the inside of the bottle.

*Remove screen from the end of kitchen faucet and let water run for a few minutes

*Turn water down until it is a slow, steady stream.

*Carefully remove screw top lid from bottle making sure not to touch inside of cap.

*Fill bottle to line or ¾ full and carefully replace cap.

*Drop off at our office and we’ll fill out paperwork to process water sample.

Sterile Bag

**It is very important that you NEVER touch the stream of water or the inside of the bag.

*Remove screen from the end of kitchen faucet and let water run for a few minutes

*Turn water down until it is a slow, steady stream.

*Tear off top of bag at perforation

*Using small white tabs pull outward to open bag

*Holding yellow tabs, fill bag with water until ¾ full

*Still holding yellow tabs swing bag up and over and twist tie closed.

*Drop off at our office and we’ll fill out paperwork to process water sample

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